My fully galvanized telescope piers
These Piers have an 8mm thick laser cut base, 4mm thick laser cut gussets, 5mm thick 168mm dia tube
with a laser cut 10mm thick top.
The bases have 4 x 17mm diameter fixing holes and 4 x 12mm threaded pier levelling holes.
The bottom plate has a 130mm hole underneath and an additional cable outlet hole at the bottom of the tube
opposite the "birds nest"
The top is drilled and threaded (no nuts required) to the Meade 6 x 8mm pattern (fit Pulsar adapter plates)
This also has a 12.5mm centre hole (has a countersink under to accept cone washers to step down to 10mm)
and 4 x 10mm holes (for JTW adapter plates)
If that is not enough it also has 2 x 10mm threaded holes for the azimuth
stop for Skywatcher EQ 5 and EQ 6 mounts.
(should also fit ASToptics pier adapters)
In fact because of the wide (500mm) base and flexible design, you could even purchase your own 12mm
threaded, locking castor wheels (x 4) and make a fully mobile pier!
The choice is yours.
with a laser cut 10mm thick top.
The bases have 4 x 17mm diameter fixing holes and 4 x 12mm threaded pier levelling holes.
The bottom plate has a 130mm hole underneath and an additional cable outlet hole at the bottom of the tube
opposite the "birds nest"
The top is drilled and threaded (no nuts required) to the Meade 6 x 8mm pattern (fit Pulsar adapter plates)
This also has a 12.5mm centre hole (has a countersink under to accept cone washers to step down to 10mm)
and 4 x 10mm holes (for JTW adapter plates)
If that is not enough it also has 2 x 10mm threaded holes for the azimuth
stop for Skywatcher EQ 5 and EQ 6 mounts.
(should also fit ASToptics pier adapters)
In fact because of the wide (500mm) base and flexible design, you could even purchase your own 12mm
threaded, locking castor wheels (x 4) and make a fully mobile pier!
The choice is yours.
If your base is not perfectly level, or flat, you can use the 12mm threaded holes at the base of each gusset
to "trim" the pier level. Simply choose your orientation, mark the fixing bolt positions (a chalk outline helps too)
Insert 4 x 12mm bolts and adjust til level. Tip over pier, drill holes for fixings (and fit? depending on what is used),
use a gap filler under base to take up any gap (if required), slow set resin or cement, coat the protruding threads
with grease and/or plastic film. Tip back pier and bolt down just enough to seat pier. onto the levelling bolts.
When filler has fully set, levelling bolts can be removed (to prevent tripping) and pier fixings tightened.
Note: These steel piers are HEAVY from about 37kg (depending on size).
These are mainly sold via ebay and I have to pay fees to do so, buy direct from me to save 10% on the listed ebay price.
This will not affect the postage price as this is charged at cost only. Piers can be collected from my Cornwall address.
to "trim" the pier level. Simply choose your orientation, mark the fixing bolt positions (a chalk outline helps too)
Insert 4 x 12mm bolts and adjust til level. Tip over pier, drill holes for fixings (and fit? depending on what is used),
use a gap filler under base to take up any gap (if required), slow set resin or cement, coat the protruding threads
with grease and/or plastic film. Tip back pier and bolt down just enough to seat pier. onto the levelling bolts.
When filler has fully set, levelling bolts can be removed (to prevent tripping) and pier fixings tightened.
Note: These steel piers are HEAVY from about 37kg (depending on size).
These are mainly sold via ebay and I have to pay fees to do so, buy direct from me to save 10% on the listed ebay price.
This will not affect the postage price as this is charged at cost only. Piers can be collected from my Cornwall address.
